The next two photos show the locking lever in the unlocked and locked positions. The lever snaps over center, so no additional fasteners are needed to keep it in place.

You can also see the lifting line and it's cam cleat. Note that the lifting line pulls directly on the center line, which keeps the rudder from turning while being raised. The line goes through two 20 mm blocks before it attaches to the rudder. The lifting line handle is simply a piece of PVC pipe.

Though a bit hard to see, there are HDPE (high density polyethylene) blocks at all points where the rudder touches the bracket.

In the lower right, you can see the three holes from the old location of the mainsheet cleat. I had to move it a few inches to port for tiller clearance.

The next two photo's show the upper clamp in the unlocked and locked positions. The small blocks on the port side provide a 3:1 purchase. In the unlocked position, there is a small gap between the port square tube and the aft HDPE block. You can just make out the three small springs that push the clamp open when the lever is released. The locking line tension is adjusted with the knot at the bottom of the HDPE block.

The upper clamp ensures that there is no slop in the rudder, a problem with some lifting rudder designs. The idea is to give the same solid feel you get with a fixed one piece rudder.